Naldehra Nostalgia: A Tale of Two Cities
By S.
Kalidas
Places and people mix in mysterious ways. Sometimes they combine to make
history. At others, their encounter serves to subvert it. As Pakistani and
Indian teams, their families and friends gathered at the greens of the Naldehra
Golf Course near Shimla in Himachal Pradesh last month, excitement and bonhomie
were tinged with just the right measure of nostalgia and remorse. Here we were,
like two sets of errant children of the British Raj, encountering our past at
Shimla, the erstwhile Summer Capital of the undivided Empire. Heightening the
emotional pitch was the fact that the Pakistani team was from Lahore , a city known to be the cultural
capital of north India
till the partition. It was for so many of us, re-living the memories of our
parents and grandparents half a century after independence.
We were staying at the Chalets Naldehra, some 300 metres from the golf
course and 21 Kilometres from Shimla city. Before the bonfire and cocktails the
first evening, formal speeches were made. Lt Gen Muhammad Tariq, President of
the Pakistan Golf Federation, raised a toast to the peace process and people‑to‑people
contact saying: “We have the same history, heritage, culture and languages
although we may live in two different countries today. Every step taken by you
in this path of friendship shall be reciprocated more than equally by us.”
Someone recalled that exactly on this date (July 3) Indira Gandhi and Zulfiqar
Ali Bhutto met a few miles down the road at the Wild Flower Hall to sign the
Shimla Accord in 1972. “But unlike 1971 when I was swinging a gun, this time
round the irons we are holding are golf clubs,” smiled Tariq. The golf
tournament is the idea of KC Anand, a Shimla businessman who migrated here from
Lahore : “Like
me there are several people who settled in Shimla after migrating from Lahore . And there are
many in Lahore
today whose families had lived in Shimla before partition. So I thought it
would be nice to arrange a golf tournament here and later a return match in Lahore so that we may
meet as friends and also get to see our mutual homelands again.”
Shimla and Lahore .
One was a centre of imperial power. The other‑- immortalised by the legends of
Anarkali* and Ranjit Singh*— a crucible of education,
arts and culture. Half of Lahore
today is mujahir (as migrants from India are
called in Pakistan ).
Half of Shimla now comprises Punjabi refugees (as migrants from Western Punjab
were called in India). When the two meet in the hindsight of history, the wisdom
of civilisation tends to nullify —at least in the verdant landscape of mutual
imaginations— the mad fury of fanatical politics. Almost each one of us had our
own tale of the two cities; quite distant from the real world that had changed
so radically.
*Anarkali was a legendary16th century courtesan who was a lover of
Prince Salim (later Emperor Jegangir) who was put to death by Akbar the Great (1542 –1605).
*The Sikh Warrior King Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780–1839) made a Sikh empire comprising Punjab, Kashnir
and Afghanistan with Lahore as his Capital.
As the music group engaged for the party belted out old favourites from
another era —Summer Wine, Jamaica
Farewell— and wine made the full moon mellow, I met Sadia and Mehmud, a
young golfer couple from Pakistan .
She is a charming radiologist and he runs his own business in plastics. Sadia’s
family, like mine, used to spend six months each year in Shimla. Now, the
Ancient Mariner* in me prompts me to share my own tale of Lahore and
Shimla with them. As it is a poignant one, perhaps it will bear repetition here
too.
*The Rime of the Ancient Mariner is the longest major poem by the English
poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, written in 1797–98
Rao Sahib Jagadisa
Iyer, my grandfather, came to Shimla as a civil servant from Madras in the
first decade of the 20th century. My father, his eighth child, was born here in
1928. Just before World War II, my grandmother’s sister, Aunt Parvati (Papu to
family) joined the family. A young
widow, aunt Papu, had just returned from England after finishing her Masters
in Education from Leeds . She soon found a job
at Lady Maclaren’s College in Lahore
and was dispatched there with my father’s elder sister for company. Among her
many students in Lahore
was Kamini Kaushal the film actress and a certain Miss Zohra. The latter became
a close friend and aunt Papu came to depend on her for practically everything.
When the
pre-partition Hindu-Muslim riots broke out in Lahore , Zohra looked after aunt Papu. After
partition was announced, the day aunt Papu went to retrieve her jewellery from
her locker, the bank manager was murdered in front of her eyes. She left her
locker keys with Zohra and somehow managed to reach my grandmother’s home at
Shimla. A few months later, she was transferred to a college in Amritsar where she stayed
at the women’s hostel. One night, some months after Partition, she was woken up
by the night watchman and informed that there was a man at the gate to see her.
She went out fearfully, for the times were such, wondering who it could be.
Imagine her surprise when she saw faithful Zohra’s brother standing there with
a casket under his shawl. The young man had risked his life to cross the border
at night with her jewels to return them to her!
Sadia and Mehmud are
moved by my story. We drank a toast again at Naldehra to Zohra and her brother
—whose name did not reach me down the generations even if his deed got
enshrined in our family’s annals.
As a reserved,
reasoning Tamil, aunt Papu always found the passionate Punjabis --both Hindu
and Muslim--a bit too robust and hyper. “They never look before they leap,” she
would say. Yet, she must have loved them for she never returned to Madras since her return
from England
in 1939. After Partition she lived in Shimla as Principal of the Women's
Training College. Even after retirement she continued to stay alone in Shimla
till her eventual death aged 92. All those years she continued to miss Lahore and lament the
fall of the British Empire .
The next day, while
the men went off to play golf and the ladies to stroll the Mall (the main
promenade in Shimla, once restricted to Whites Only) in Shimla, I decided to do
my native Himachali number with an Italian doctor/photographer friend. We drove
down to visit an apple orchard that my father had owned in the valley of Kotkhai some two hours drive away. While Shimla is so overrun by tourists, I
have always wondered why Himachal does not diversify more into rural tourism or
agro-tourism as the Europeans call it. By any standards, Himachal is a
prosperous state. There is no dearth of electricity and the roads are extensive
and well maintained. Although even after
more than a decade since it was started the 11-kilometre stretch of kuchcha road to Purag (our village) from Gumma
on the Himachal Tibet highway is still unmetalled. But now there are three
daily buses, full electrification and both landline and mobile phone
connectivity. Besides, Himachali culture is rich, diverse and colourful. If
only someone would help remodel some of the old palaces and farm houses in
interior Himachal and turn them into comfortable guest houses there is a lot of
scope for angling, river rafting, visiting rural fairs, ancient temples and
monasteries… the list could be endless. Recently, Pragpur in Kangra has been developed
as one such hub. Though in that case perhaps the initiative lay more with the
dynamic owners of the Judge’s Court hotel, which is now a heritage resort.
The orchard that my
father owned, neglected by its new owners, is in a dire state. But the rest of
the village seems to be flourishing. From the road I spy an old comrade in arms
nimbly negotiating the hillside. “Kerkha
chaala Mangtu pandata, khar duporo pagada (Where are you heading in the mid-day sun, Mangtu Pandit, with your
turban on your head)?” I call out, borrowing the line from a popular folk
song of the Mahasu region. Mangtu, our old mali
(gardener), is amazed by my unannounced appearance. He looks good after all
these years and has built himself a comfortable home of bricks and cement. His
old stone hut with sloping slate roof is taken over by a younger brother. His
new sitting room has white plastic chairs and a television set inside a locked
glass cabinet. “There is no cable here,” he tells me, “we have to make do with
Doordarshan.” His third and newest wife offers us tea and Mangtu wants us to
stay the night with them. But I have promises to keep…
I climb the steep
hill to meet headmaster Ram Dayal, who knows all about orcharding and was a
mentor to me. He too is now living in a new reinforced concrete house. “The old
house is beyond repair,” he complained, referring to the magnificent three
storey stone and wood house that his forefathers had built in the heart of the
village. Unable to maintain or remodel it, he is just waiting for it to crumble
and whither away. Though given the sheer solidity of the old structure and the
high quality workmanship of its builders it will be a long time before it falls
apart.
I ask him about the
apple crop and he is pessimistic. “It has not rained in two months I fear the
worst,” he bemoans pointing to the trees where the apple size is still the size
of lemons. They need water to fatten with juice. While he organises tea and
freshly picked pears for us, we walk up to the village temple. It used to be a beautifully
carved old wooden edifice dedicated to Shiva and Nag devta. In its slate-lined courtyard every March the annual mela (fair) is held. It is still
beautiful but cement and aluminium are fast replacing carved wood and stones in
virtually all Himachali buildings. My Italian friend is aghast at the
architectural vandalism. “Is this the price of progress?” I wonder.
If we were bemoaning the architectural vandalism in the countryside, the
venue for the last banquet for the Pakistani and Indian teams at an upwardly
mobile Shimla hotel that evening, was an eye opener. During the Raj and till
well into my youth, there used to be a seasonal nullah (brook) called the Combermere waterfall on the Mall. By its side used to be a tiny, quaint red and
green post office called the Combermere Post Office. The two together made for
a sight pretty as a picture-postcard. Today the Combermere Brook does not
exist. Multi-storied concrete buildings have snaked up its course right from
the lowest level of the Cart Road
at the bottom of the Shimla hill. One is a hotel replete with private lifts,
lounges and banquet hall--the venue of our Last Supper.
The view from the hotel's cantilevered veranda is impressive. Across the
valley one can see all the levels of the main Shimla ridge with the lights of
the Mall, the Middle Bazaar, Lower bazaar and Cart Road all tiered up one over the
other. Also across the valley lies the British built Cecil Hotel
from where M.S. Oberoi first started out as an hotelier in the 1930s. The Cecil
too, is built over many tiers up the hillside. But the difference in scale,
temperament and civic responsibility between the Cecil and the folly that
passes for a hotel at Combermere is a yawning chasm of sensibilities. My
reverie is broken by a melodious voice singing a sad old Hindi film song: “loot kar mera jahan, chhup gaye ho tum
kahan (having destroyed my world, where have you disappeared).” It is Gazala, the wife of a Lahori
Banker singing with tears in her eyes. There were lumps in many a throat. We
are a sentimental sub-continent. And yes, each of us has his or her own tale of
the two cities. Hopefully, from now on, we'll be listening to each other more
often.